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[title] => Potraga za turistima u Splitu: Ne govore konobari više ni danke, ni grazie, ni merci ni thanks... Sada je u igri samo ‘fala lipa’
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Znate li kako nam za sada stoji splitski turizam? Eto tako da nam konobari Mario i Ali iz "Luxora", kavane s carskog trga Peristil, potvrđuju da su jučer do u podne imali samo četiri gosta stranca: mamu, tatu i dvoje dice. U pratnji naše vodičke.
Kad smo im rekli da se priča kako su u Hrvatsku ušle puste tisuće turista, pukli su od smija čudeći se gdje su li se samo sakrili. Jer ih na Peristilu nema ni za lijek. Kao što nikada nije bilo ni onoga turista koji je centrom Splita prošao, a da nije na Peristilu udario kartelu, odnosno sada selfie. I u toj nikada viđenoj slici samotinje Mario, pogleda uprtog put neba, odjednom uzvikne: "Eno ih, eno ih, gore su, gore visoko, poviše". Ma tko brate mili, tko, galeb, vrabac, orao, tko, što, što se događa?
– Ma ti stranci šta san ih spominja. Eno ih gore na bedemu, one četiri male glave gore visoko. E to su ti, vidite li ih! – vikne on.
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Dosta, sve nam je jasno, kada konobar u daljini bez dalekozora prepozna glave turista, onda znamo splitsko stanje stvari. Eto što nam je korona donijela, pustoš, bez onog orkestralnog taka-taka zvuka kotačića, pogrbljene mladosti s bremenom teškog ruksaka na leđima (teško ti dođe kada ih vidiš!), Kineza s maskama i prije nego što su stigle 'u modu'. Ne govore više konobari ni danke, ni grazie, ni tack, ni merci, ma ni thanks. Sada je u igri samo 'fala lipa'. I to je to.
---
---
Fellinijevski motiv
Kojih 50 metara istočno nalijećemo na fellinijevski motiv. Narod s pazara prolazi, brontulaju kako je skupo, da su trišnje po 20 kuna kilo, da je moglo i manje jer je Sveti Duje proša. I oni prolaze, a on, šeširdžija Zele, staloženo, gracilno štuca bradicu i milo gledi se na ogledalu postavljenom na zidu palače. Šjor, ima li turista, pitamo Zelu, jeste li ih vidjeli, navodno ih je ušlo puno, na tisuće ovih dana?
– Je je, ušlo ih je puno, ali di? Bit će kroz vrata svojih kuća. Ja niti jednog nisan vidija. Ma da mi je samo znat di su ih to vidili! Da imaju li stil kad kupuju šešire? Imaju, imaju, kako ne. Samo da je šta jeftiniji. To je baš stilski. I pazite kud hodate da ne udrete možda u kojeg – zajebaje Zele.
---
---
Bogme teško da će nam se to dogoditi. Jer od Peristila put Pjace ni na jednog jedinog nismo naletjeli. Zlatarije su prazne, u dućanima tu i tamo koji domaći kupac. Negdje na pola puta odjednom je do nas doprla glazba. Violina. Motiv iz 'Kuma'. Ona savršena uspješnica koja prati sve romantične trenutke mladog Al Pacina. Taman se složila s palačom, s poviješću grada koji nam je korona ogolila do kosti. A onda se pojavio i on, slovački Rom Stanislav Sendrej Milo, amater ulični svirač, fenomenalni, koji je već tri mjeseca u Splitu.
– Meni dobro ovde, u Dubrovniku ne moga svirat. Dole moraš imati dozvola, ima je njih pet, a ja šesti došao. Zaradim za stan, za hranu. Od domaćih, od Splićana. Od turista ništa. Nema ih. Kažem vam, tih nema. Čuo sam da ih ima u Rijeci. Znate li traže li i tamo dozvole? Išao bi gore. Kažu da tamo ulazi puno stranaca – veli Stanislav, na naš zahtjev opet nam bacajući istu skladbu.
---
---
A što ćemo, idemo dalje, približava nam se mladi kuhar iz 'Bokerije', trči kao lud s blitvom u ruci put restorana. Kaže onako na brzinu da još nisu otvorili, taman se pripremaju. Ali zato jesu u Gelateriji Emilijani, gdje nas vlasnik Jirim Bajrami nudi sladoledom koji se radi pravo retro, u onim velikim mašinama. Malo se to još ima gdje za vidjeti.
– Manje je stranaca, svega je manje. Nadao sam se da će ih biti više, ali prođe tek koji stranac. Mi svi jesmo više naklonjeni domaćim ljudima. Ali u odnosu na lani, ovo je baš sve pusto – kaže nam Jirim.
---
---
A potvrđuje nam to i njegova kolegica Matea, pa nam priča kako zna proći i po pet minuta, ma i po deset, a da nitko ulicom ne prođe. A u centru smo grada. U jednoj od najfrekventnijih zona. I sve su oči uprte u sedmi i osmi mjesec, sve su nade da će se ipak nešto sliti kod nas. A svi nam govore kako bi i moglo, jer kad udre zvizdan, počne pržiti nebo i zemlju, a što će onda ovi gore bez mora. Sjest će u auto i reći, idemo na jug. E ti se turisti ove godine čekaju kao ozebli sunce.
A dosade...
A znate li što je na Rivi? Umirovljenici u jaketama griju kosti na klupama. Brnistra se žuti kao zlato. U kafićima 200 naspram nula za domaći svit. Znači, stranca nigdje, a domaći na kavama, koje tipično splitski i dalje traju sto godina. Evo nas u Brasserie on 7. Daniel, konobar, sjedi kraj vitrine sa sladoledom. Čeka. I čeka.
– Je li dosadno čekati goste? – pitamo ga.
– Da dosadno. Ako ću birat, najlipše je kad je teraca puna. Znači, kada je teraca puna ja prođen 20 kilometara u jednoj smjeni. A evo jutros, točno ću van reć, jer mi stoji na brojaču na satu, proša san evo čet'ri kilometra. Od toga jedan i po' dok san složija štekat. A ovo ostalo u šetnji, bezveze po terasi. Znači, jedva čekan pravi posal – precizno će Daniel.
Malo iza njega Stipe Gelo nadgleda radove u 'Adriani'. Redi se teraca, pere se, čisti, stiže novi namještaj. Priprema se punom parom. Kada se otvara?
---
---
– Prvoga lipnja. Ali ništa od svega toga dok se ne otvore granice. Moja je računica ovakva: Azijati, Amerikanci, Australci, to nam doć neće. To nema šanse. Ali moglo bi bit sriće od Nijemaca, Slovaka, Čeha, Poljaka, to šta će se zaletit brzo do nas. I šta može doć autom. I to je to. A ovo sada šta ima, nema ništa – veli Stipe, dok mi nadalje uzduž Rive promatramo konobarsku svitu, kako prebačenih ruku, onako ležerno naslonjena na vrata restorana s Rive, gleda prolaznike. To je taj stil totalne, nametnute im uzvišene besposlenosti. Nikada im ni ljepše, ni gore u isto vrijeme nije bilo.
---
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Znate li kako nam za sada stoji splitski turizam? Eto tako da nam konobari Mario i Ali iz "Luxora", kavane s carskog trga Peristil, potvrđuju da su jučer do u podne imali samo četiri gosta stranca: mamu, tatu i dvoje dice. U pratnji naše vodičke.
Kad smo im rekli da se priča kako su u Hrvatsku ušle puste tisuće turista, pukli su od smija čudeći se gdje su li se samo sakrili. Jer ih na Peristilu nema ni za lijek. Kao što nikada nije bilo ni onoga turista koji je centrom Splita prošao, a da nije na Peristilu udario kartelu, odnosno sada selfie. I u toj nikada viđenoj slici samotinje Mario, pogleda uprtog put neba, odjednom uzvikne: "Eno ih, eno ih, gore su, gore visoko, poviše". Ma tko brate mili, tko, galeb, vrabac, orao, tko, što, što se događa?
– Ma ti stranci šta san ih spominja. Eno ih gore na bedemu, one četiri male glave gore visoko. E to su ti, vidite li ih! – vikne on.
---
---
Dosta, sve nam je jasno, kada konobar u daljini bez dalekozora prepozna glave turista, onda znamo splitsko stanje stvari. Eto što nam je korona donijela, pustoš, bez onog orkestralnog taka-taka zvuka kotačića, pogrbljene mladosti s bremenom teškog ruksaka na leđima (teško ti dođe kada ih vidiš!), Kineza s maskama i prije nego što su stigle 'u modu'. Ne govore više konobari ni danke, ni grazie, ni tack, ni merci, ma ni thanks. Sada je u igri samo 'fala lipa'. I to je to.
---
---
Fellinijevski motiv
Kojih 50 metara istočno nalijećemo na fellinijevski motiv. Narod s pazara prolazi, brontulaju kako je skupo, da su trišnje po 20 kuna kilo, da je moglo i manje jer je Sveti Duje proša. I oni prolaze, a on, šeširdžija Zele, staloženo, gracilno štuca bradicu i milo gledi se na ogledalu postavljenom na zidu palače. Šjor, ima li turista, pitamo Zelu, jeste li ih vidjeli, navodno ih je ušlo puno, na tisuće ovih dana?
– Je je, ušlo ih je puno, ali di? Bit će kroz vrata svojih kuća. Ja niti jednog nisan vidija. Ma da mi je samo znat di su ih to vidili! Da imaju li stil kad kupuju šešire? Imaju, imaju, kako ne. Samo da je šta jeftiniji. To je baš stilski. I pazite kud hodate da ne udrete možda u kojeg – zajebaje Zele.
---
---
Bogme teško da će nam se to dogoditi. Jer od Peristila put Pjace ni na jednog jedinog nismo naletjeli. Zlatarije su prazne, u dućanima tu i tamo koji domaći kupac. Negdje na pola puta odjednom je do nas doprla glazba. Violina. Motiv iz 'Kuma'. Ona savršena uspješnica koja prati sve romantične trenutke mladog Al Pacina. Taman se složila s palačom, s poviješću grada koji nam je korona ogolila do kosti. A onda se pojavio i on, slovački Rom Stanislav Sendrej Milo, amater ulični svirač, fenomenalni, koji je već tri mjeseca u Splitu.
– Meni dobro ovde, u Dubrovniku ne moga svirat. Dole moraš imati dozvola, ima je njih pet, a ja šesti došao. Zaradim za stan, za hranu. Od domaćih, od Splićana. Od turista ništa. Nema ih. Kažem vam, tih nema. Čuo sam da ih ima u Rijeci. Znate li traže li i tamo dozvole? Išao bi gore. Kažu da tamo ulazi puno stranaca – veli Stanislav, na naš zahtjev opet nam bacajući istu skladbu.
---
---
A što ćemo, idemo dalje, približava nam se mladi kuhar iz 'Bokerije', trči kao lud s blitvom u ruci put restorana. Kaže onako na brzinu da još nisu otvorili, taman se pripremaju. Ali zato jesu u Gelateriji Emilijani, gdje nas vlasnik Jirim Bajrami nudi sladoledom koji se radi pravo retro, u onim velikim mašinama. Malo se to još ima gdje za vidjeti.
– Manje je stranaca, svega je manje. Nadao sam se da će ih biti više, ali prođe tek koji stranac. Mi svi jesmo više naklonjeni domaćim ljudima. Ali u odnosu na lani, ovo je baš sve pusto – kaže nam Jirim.
---
---
A potvrđuje nam to i njegova kolegica Matea, pa nam priča kako zna proći i po pet minuta, ma i po deset, a da nitko ulicom ne prođe. A u centru smo grada. U jednoj od najfrekventnijih zona. I sve su oči uprte u sedmi i osmi mjesec, sve su nade da će se ipak nešto sliti kod nas. A svi nam govore kako bi i moglo, jer kad udre zvizdan, počne pržiti nebo i zemlju, a što će onda ovi gore bez mora. Sjest će u auto i reći, idemo na jug. E ti se turisti ove godine čekaju kao ozebli sunce.
A dosade...
A znate li što je na Rivi? Umirovljenici u jaketama griju kosti na klupama. Brnistra se žuti kao zlato. U kafićima 200 naspram nula za domaći svit. Znači, stranca nigdje, a domaći na kavama, koje tipično splitski i dalje traju sto godina. Evo nas u Brasserie on 7. Daniel, konobar, sjedi kraj vitrine sa sladoledom. Čeka. I čeka.
– Je li dosadno čekati goste? – pitamo ga.
– Da dosadno. Ako ću birat, najlipše je kad je teraca puna. Znači, kada je teraca puna ja prođen 20 kilometara u jednoj smjeni. A evo jutros, točno ću van reć, jer mi stoji na brojaču na satu, proša san evo čet'ri kilometra. Od toga jedan i po' dok san složija štekat. A ovo ostalo u šetnji, bezveze po terasi. Znači, jedva čekan pravi posal – precizno će Daniel.
Malo iza njega Stipe Gelo nadgleda radove u 'Adriani'. Redi se teraca, pere se, čisti, stiže novi namještaj. Priprema se punom parom. Kada se otvara?
---
---
– Prvoga lipnja. Ali ništa od svega toga dok se ne otvore granice. Moja je računica ovakva: Azijati, Amerikanci, Australci, to nam doć neće. To nema šanse. Ali moglo bi bit sriće od Nijemaca, Slovaka, Čeha, Poljaka, to šta će se zaletit brzo do nas. I šta može doć autom. I to je to. A ovo sada šta ima, nema ništa – veli Stipe, dok mi nadalje uzduž Rive promatramo konobarsku svitu, kako prebačenih ruku, onako ležerno naslonjena na vrata restorana s Rive, gleda prolaznike. To je taj stil totalne, nametnute im uzvišene besposlenosti. Nikada im ni ljepše, ni gore u isto vrijeme nije bilo.
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15. svibanj 2024 07:47
