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U Sveučilišnoj galeriji "Vasko Lipovac" bit će ovoga četvrtka u 19.30 sati otvorena izložba fotografija autorice Grete Vuković.

Serija fotografija pod nazivom "Female Dandy Fashion Editorial" predstavlja tri modna "editoriala" inspirirana dandy stilom, a snimljena je u Splitu.

Značenje pojmova dandy stil i dendizam kroz povijest se mijenjao. Pojavio se prvo u Engleskoj u 18. stoljeću, a oslikava način odijevanja i životni stil. Dandyji su mnogo pažnje posvećivali izgledu koji je mogao varirati od prividno ležernog do kicoškog. Vodili su računa o bontonu, uglađeno se ponašali, ali nerijetko im je forma bila važnija od sadržaja i moda sama sebi svrhom. Stoga su na sebe privlačili i porugu.

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Greta Vuković je u svojoj izložbi spojila dendizam, koji se mahom veže uz muškarce sa ženskim modelima, propitujući tako rodne uloge i percepciju žena u društvu.

Prvi dandy bio je George Brummel

Greta je studentica pete godine Umjetničke akademije u Splitu – Odsjek za dizajn vizualnih komunikacija, i upravo dovršava svoj diplomski rad.

Nakon izložbe "Personal" (Fotoklub Split, 2019.), ovo je njezina druga samostalna izložba fotografija, a izlagala je i na nekoliko skupnih ("Biennale", Novi Sad, 2019., "Best of UMAS", Split, 2020.).

Izloženi radovi nastali su tijekom diplomskog studija na kolegiju "Filmska fotografija" pod mentorstvom Mirka Pivčevića i Vice Vidana.

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– Dandyji su mi interesantni već godinama, pa sam proučavala njihov izgled i opise putem filma i literature. Svojedobno su bili i oličenje romantizma, težnje za egzotičnim, novim i nepoznatim, a krasno su izgledali.

U vrijeme nastanka i vrhunca popularnosti, dendizam je bio simbol muževnosti, jer je odustajao od kiča. Prvi poznati dandy bio je George Bryan "Beau" Brummel, pripadnik srednje britanske klase, čuven po modnim kombinacijama koje su bile naizgled jednostavne, ali vrhunske kvalitete, s pomno odabranim detaljima.

Taj stil veoma se svidio aristokraciji koja ga je počela kopirati. Kasnije je dandy postao pojam kojim se označava kicoš.

Charles Baudelaire zabilježio je da je tim ljudima elegancija jedina profesija, da žive i spavaju pred ogledalom. U dvadesetom stoljeću još ih je bilo, pa su pomalo iščezli – pojašnjava Greta Vuković.

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Za svoju izložbu crno-bijelih fotografija na kojima su djevojke u muškoj odjeći, nastojala je propitati neke stereotipe o odijevanju i sagledati gubi li se na taj način ženstvenost. Dojmovi mogu biti različiti, ali, meni se čini da se nije izgubila, zaključuje.

Kao modeli spremno su joj priskočile prijateljice Ela Braović, Vana Bašić, Petra Ana Čubelić i Andrea Stamenković.

Kombinirale su najčešće po jedan komad ženske i ostatak muške odjeće, velika odijela i sakoe koje su pronašle u ormarima muških članova obitelji i prijatelja.

– Čak se i modni dizajneri povremeno vraćaju dandy stilu – moda uvijek prikuplja i kombinira detalje iz prošlosti – pa je Yves Saint-Laurent svojevremeno imao žensku reviju u tom stilu, ali "začinjenu" šljokicama i mrežastim čarapama – napominje autorica.

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Georg Bryan Brummell (1778-1840), prvi dandy na svijetu
-/Mary Evans Picture Librar/Profimedia
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Tekst uz izložbu potpisuje studentica povijesti umjetnosti Ivana Kasalo koja je između ostalog zabilježila:

– Kroz ovu izložbu propituju se rodne uloge, jer stavlja moderne žene obučene u tipičnu mušku odjeću i tipično muški stil. Nesumnjivo je odjeća dio identiteta, usvajanje rodne uloge i način odijevanja. Društvena okolina očekuje uvažavanje tih normi i, premda je danas taj pritisak manji nego u prošlosti, zanimljivo je vidjeti mijenja li se percepcija žene primjenom tipično muškog stila, što je dendizam bio u svojim počecima, i u kojem smjeru.

Također, moderna žena ima stav; ona više nije samo poslušna kućanica vezana za dom. Taj stav autorica nastoji prikazati na svojim fotografijama, a pomoću njega usmjeriti promatrača na pitanje dobiva li žena njim, ili gubi, na svojoj ženskosti i ženskoj snazi.

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U Sveučilišnoj galeriji "Vasko Lipovac" bit će ovoga četvrtka u 19.30 sati otvorena izložba fotografija autorice Grete Vuković.

Serija fotografija pod nazivom "Female Dandy Fashion Editorial" predstavlja tri modna "editoriala" inspirirana dandy stilom, a snimljena je u Splitu.

Značenje pojmova dandy stil i dendizam kroz povijest se mijenjao. Pojavio se prvo u Engleskoj u 18. stoljeću, a oslikava način odijevanja i životni stil. Dandyji su mnogo pažnje posvećivali izgledu koji je mogao varirati od prividno ležernog do kicoškog. Vodili su računa o bontonu, uglađeno se ponašali, ali nerijetko im je forma bila važnija od sadržaja i moda sama sebi svrhom. Stoga su na sebe privlačili i porugu.

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Greta Vuković je u svojoj izložbi spojila dendizam, koji se mahom veže uz muškarce sa ženskim modelima, propitujući tako rodne uloge i percepciju žena u društvu.

Prvi dandy bio je George Brummel

Greta je studentica pete godine Umjetničke akademije u Splitu – Odsjek za dizajn vizualnih komunikacija, i upravo dovršava svoj diplomski rad.

Nakon izložbe "Personal" (Fotoklub Split, 2019.), ovo je njezina druga samostalna izložba fotografija, a izlagala je i na nekoliko skupnih ("Biennale", Novi Sad, 2019., "Best of UMAS", Split, 2020.).

Izloženi radovi nastali su tijekom diplomskog studija na kolegiju "Filmska fotografija" pod mentorstvom Mirka Pivčevića i Vice Vidana.

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– Dandyji su mi interesantni već godinama, pa sam proučavala njihov izgled i opise putem filma i literature. Svojedobno su bili i oličenje romantizma, težnje za egzotičnim, novim i nepoznatim, a krasno su izgledali.

U vrijeme nastanka i vrhunca popularnosti, dendizam je bio simbol muževnosti, jer je odustajao od kiča. Prvi poznati dandy bio je George Bryan "Beau" Brummel, pripadnik srednje britanske klase, čuven po modnim kombinacijama koje su bile naizgled jednostavne, ali vrhunske kvalitete, s pomno odabranim detaljima.

Taj stil veoma se svidio aristokraciji koja ga je počela kopirati. Kasnije je dandy postao pojam kojim se označava kicoš.

Charles Baudelaire zabilježio je da je tim ljudima elegancija jedina profesija, da žive i spavaju pred ogledalom. U dvadesetom stoljeću još ih je bilo, pa su pomalo iščezli – pojašnjava Greta Vuković.

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Za svoju izložbu crno-bijelih fotografija na kojima su djevojke u muškoj odjeći, nastojala je propitati neke stereotipe o odijevanju i sagledati gubi li se na taj način ženstvenost. Dojmovi mogu biti različiti, ali, meni se čini da se nije izgubila, zaključuje.

Kao modeli spremno su joj priskočile prijateljice Ela Braović, Vana Bašić, Petra Ana Čubelić i Andrea Stamenković.

Kombinirale su najčešće po jedan komad ženske i ostatak muške odjeće, velika odijela i sakoe koje su pronašle u ormarima muških članova obitelji i prijatelja.

– Čak se i modni dizajneri povremeno vraćaju dandy stilu – moda uvijek prikuplja i kombinira detalje iz prošlosti – pa je Yves Saint-Laurent svojevremeno imao žensku reviju u tom stilu, ali "začinjenu" šljokicama i mrežastim čarapama – napominje autorica.

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Georg Bryan Brummell (1778-1840), prvi dandy na svijetu
-/Mary Evans Picture Librar/Profimedia
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Tekst uz izložbu potpisuje studentica povijesti umjetnosti Ivana Kasalo koja je između ostalog zabilježila:

– Kroz ovu izložbu propituju se rodne uloge, jer stavlja moderne žene obučene u tipičnu mušku odjeću i tipično muški stil. Nesumnjivo je odjeća dio identiteta, usvajanje rodne uloge i način odijevanja. Društvena okolina očekuje uvažavanje tih normi i, premda je danas taj pritisak manji nego u prošlosti, zanimljivo je vidjeti mijenja li se percepcija žene primjenom tipično muškog stila, što je dendizam bio u svojim počecima, i u kojem smjeru.

Također, moderna žena ima stav; ona više nije samo poslušna kućanica vezana za dom. Taj stav autorica nastoji prikazati na svojim fotografijama, a pomoću njega usmjeriti promatrača na pitanje dobiva li žena njim, ili gubi, na svojoj ženskosti i ženskoj snazi.

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Srđan Tutić Srki Iandagnall Computing/Alamy/Alamy/Profimedia -/Mary Evans Picture Librar/Profimedia
Srđan Tutić Srki
Greta Vuković: Čak se i modni dizajneri povremeno vraćaju dandy stilu





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OstaloSveučilišna galerija

Dandy oživjeli pred Gretinom kamerom: izložba fotografija koja je spojila davni modni stil sa suvremenom ženom

Piše Jasmina Parić
19. svibnja 2021. - 14:58

U Sveučilišnoj galeriji "Vasko Lipovac" bit će ovoga četvrtka u 19.30 sati otvorena izložba fotografija autorice Grete Vuković.

Serija fotografija pod nazivom "Female Dandy Fashion Editorial" predstavlja tri modna "editoriala" inspirirana dandy stilom, a snimljena je u Splitu.

Značenje pojmova dandy stil i dendizam kroz povijest se mijenjao. Pojavio se prvo u Engleskoj u 18. stoljeću, a oslikava način odijevanja i životni stil. Dandyji su mnogo pažnje posvećivali izgledu koji je mogao varirati od prividno ležernog do kicoškog. Vodili su računa o bontonu, uglađeno se ponašali, ali nerijetko im je forma bila važnija od sadržaja i moda sama sebi svrhom. Stoga su na sebe privlačili i porugu.

Greta Vuković je u svojoj izložbi spojila dendizam,...

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13. svibanj 2024 01:42