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[title] => Proveli smo dan u gradu alkara, tisuće su pohrlile u Sinj na proslavu Velike Gospe. Korona je glavna tema, ali sve izgleda kao nekad... Ili? ‘Nema šušura, nema ni procesije... Manje je ljudi!‘
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Možeš ti našem narodu o pandemijskim mjerama govoriti i govoriti, ali kada to nešto naumi, kao što je naumio hodočastiti u Sinj na proslavu blagdana Velike Gospe, tada nema te korone koja će ga na putu zaustaviti.
Već oko deset nedjeljnih jutarnjih sati Sinj je imao dušu na duši, krkljanac, kolone ljudi koje su se slijevale na glavni trg pokušavajući uočiti slobodno mjesto. A nije ga bilo "ni za lik", pa su u grozdovima visjeli sa štekata, jedan na drugome, koljeno uz koljeno. U bliskom kontaktu izmjenjujući, rekla bi znanost, aerosol, u gužvi koju korona priželjkuje više od Boga.
- Korona, ma koja korona, ajde moja. Iđe to svojim putem, nema nama korone dok nas sinjska Gospa čuva. Maska? Ma šta to pitaš, a šta će nam. Pusti ti te priče, ništa nama uz našu Gospu loše bit neće. Vidi naroda, samo nadolazi - kaže nam Mirjana, tu domaća, veli.
Alkarski je grad "na izvol'te", i svi su dobrodošli, dočekao opsadu domaćih i gostiju, koji su svemu usprkos Velikoj Gospi u pohode stigli. I naklonili joj se na prepunom crkvenom prostoru pred Gospinom slikom zaokruženom s četiri tisuće bijelih cvjetova. Sinj se na svoj veliki dan pretvorio u mravinjak, u kojem su se prije mise u 11 sati postavljala dva pitanja. Zašto je zabranjena procesija? I hoće li se usprkos tome održati neka neformalna? I bogme i jest, bila je mala, skromna, na "divlje", ciljano spontana. Startala je oko 9.30, poveo ju je jedan od hodočasnika koji je visoko dignuo Gospinu sliku. Čim je zapjevao, odmah se 50-ak ljudi uključilo u kolonu. I krenuše oni s trga uz molitvu.
---
---
Janjičarski put
- Neće nam niko našu procesiju oduzet. Neće i neće. Ajte, ljudi, uđite, iđemo mi onako kako smo i naučili, ovo je Gospin dan. A ono tamo na trgu, oni tamo šta rade, to van je politka - reče nam jedna od raspjevanih sudionica kolone.
A u rano jutro izgledalo je kao da takvog šušura ipak biti neće. Jer gradski su parkovi ovoga puta bili neuobičajeno prazni, tek tu i tamo pokoja grupica mlađarije koja je što zavjetom, što zanosom cijelu noć hodala do svetišta. Prva grupa je iz Solina, od njih nekoliko budna je bila samo Lorena Vukšić. Ostali su snom umornih pravednika pozasapali po mekoj tratini.
- U osam navečer smo krenuli, lagano nas šest, osam sati nam je trebalo do Sinja - kaže Lorena.
Nekih 50 metara dalje blaguju dvije obitelji iz Knina. E oni su jaki, uz logističku potporu, 71 kilometar do Sinja prošli su za 23 sata. Ostavili su iza sebe vrućinu, sparinu, asfalt, ali ne žale, izdržali su - kaže Anto Andrijašević, dok su ostali uz sendviče prilegli, pa nas nude blagotvornom rakijicom. Kažu taman im dođe za opuštanje mišića.
---
---
- Ovo mi je treći put i to je doživljaj i zavjet. Je, lani je bilo manje ljudi, ali ništa u odnosu na one godine prije korone. Tada se u ovaj park nije moglo od naroda ući. Ako nisi tada došao na vrijeme, nisi imao gdje leći. Malo ćemo marendat, pa ćemo na misu i onda pečenje - kaže nam Anto.
E pa kad smo već kod pečenja, evo iz prve ruke, kilo janjetine je bilo 200 kuna, kilo odojka 120. Cesta ispod parka pretvorila se u Janjičarski put, s gomilom štandova punim pečenog mesa. Kažu ovi što su ga probali da je bolje nego ikada, pa ne čudi da se na sve strane već u devet ujutro blagovalo, brisalo masne prste, mljackalo ujednačeno i slasno na sve strane. Zadovoljni su i meštri od pečenja, išlo je pečenje kao ludo, cijelu noć je narod dolazio i naručivao.
- Niko nas nije gonja, zabranjiva, gnjavija, kontrolira, zatvara. Nismo zatvorili u ponoć, ali smo smanjili količinu. I navališe Sinjani ka i uvik. Jedino šta ove godine ne vidim Bosance, oni bi hodočastili pa bi to ligalo po parku. Ove ih godine nema. Korona - kaže Stipe iz Perušića.
Srce slavlja
Probijamo se junački kroz mirise uštipaka, toplih sendviča, hamburgera, ćevapa, palačinki, uštipaka i slatkarije. Nosi se voda u termosicama, naručuju se kave, prodaju se tepisi i drvene posude, narukvice s crkvenim motivima, lukovi i strijele, magneti, tehnički uređaji. Sve je isti kao i lani, zaključujemo, no Andrija iz Sinja uvjerava kako ipak nije. Veli da bez procesije, srca ovog velikog blagdana, nema ni onog pravog šušura. E sada, skupilo se tu nešto, ali nije to kao u vrijeme kada se u Sinju, u tom skupu hodočasnika i vjernika znalo zbrojiti i po 30 - 40 tisuća duša. I svi su oni imali najveću želju, kaže, dotaknuti okvir Gospine slike.
---
---
- Eto, toga više nema. Od kada je ove korone, to je izostalo. I kad ti nema procesije, nema ti onog srca ovog našeg velikog slavlja. Šušura nema i gotovo - kaže nam stariji Sinjanin Andrija.
Mise se redaju jedna za drugom. Plato pred Gospinom slikom pun je kao košnica. Ljudi se mole, rade selfije ispred cvjetnog bazena, skupina žena iz Otoka nam priča, a vjernice su velike, kako za procesijom najviše plaču oni koji su je tek u skorije vrijeme otkrili. Ti novopečeni vjernici. I što se mora, mora se, ako treba bez nje, O.K., mirno će one. Čeka se misa u 11, narod sve više pristiže, puni mrvice hlada po kantunima, zaposjeo je zidiće pred okolnim kućama. Sve je isto kao što je bilo nekada. Ili?
---
---
- Nije isto. Manje je ljudi.
- Ma nije manje, nego su Sinjani feštali cilu noć pa se još nisu ni digli. Leže.
- A nema ni procesije, možda je isto dobro da je nema, zbog korone.
- Ma ajde, molin te, nema veće gluposti nego to šta su je zabranili.
- Morali su je zabranit, zbog zaraze, vidiš da je puno mladih hodočasnika došlo, stariji su izostali, boje se doć.
- Ma dobro, je, ali da je bila procesija, onda bi došli. Iako ih je i ovako puno. A puno je na trgu, došlo je svita sa svih strana. E neka, zato mi domaći uživamo u ovoj našoj maloj Vrličkoj ulici. Neka njih tamo, tamo su im ionako digli cine još od Alke.
- E dobro kažeš, neka stoje oni tamo. Bolje i zbog korone da je manja gužva.
- Ma koja korona, ajde, molin te, nisu tribali zabranit procesiju, to je najveća glupost - i tako ukrug uz kaficu divane Sinjani Dražen i Ante.
Gospe Sinjska, moli za nas. Da ova korona više iđe ća, da je na oči više ne vidimo.
---
Miro Bulj: Zašto Hvar može, a Sinj ne?
Evo nam lagano Vrličkom ulicom i gradonačelnika Mira Bulja. U veštitu po zvizdanu. Kaže ide na misu, a prije mise ga čekaju novinari. Mi smo ga premijerno uhvatili nasamo, pa ga pitamo hoće li biti kakvog incidenta, kakve grube riči. Bože sačuvaj, kaže Miro, pa nam kaže kako se svih sinjskih dana fešte ma niti jedna čaša razbila nije.
- I žao mi je i baš mi je žao šta se naša stara tradicija procesije prekinula. Posebice mi je žaj šta neki govore nemojte ići Gospi u Sinj. A na Hvar se moglo. A volio bi da je procesija, jer ne vidim niti jedan razlog da te naše tradicije nema. A vidi ovo, pola Dalmacije je ovdje došlo, pola Hercegovine - veli gradonačelnik Bulj.
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[type_id] => 204
[category] => TableOCMCategory Object
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[name] => Zagora
[alias] => zagora
[description] =>
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[extraFieldsGroup] => 9
[published] => 1
[image] =>
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Možeš ti našem narodu o pandemijskim mjerama govoriti i govoriti, ali kada to nešto naumi, kao što je naumio hodočastiti u Sinj na proslavu blagdana Velike Gospe, tada nema te korone koja će ga na putu zaustaviti.
Već oko deset nedjeljnih jutarnjih sati Sinj je imao dušu na duši, krkljanac, kolone ljudi koje su se slijevale na glavni trg pokušavajući uočiti slobodno mjesto. A nije ga bilo "ni za lik", pa su u grozdovima visjeli sa štekata, jedan na drugome, koljeno uz koljeno. U bliskom kontaktu izmjenjujući, rekla bi znanost, aerosol, u gužvi koju korona priželjkuje više od Boga.
- Korona, ma koja korona, ajde moja. Iđe to svojim putem, nema nama korone dok nas sinjska Gospa čuva. Maska? Ma šta to pitaš, a šta će nam. Pusti ti te priče, ništa nama uz našu Gospu loše bit neće. Vidi naroda, samo nadolazi - kaže nam Mirjana, tu domaća, veli.
Alkarski je grad "na izvol'te", i svi su dobrodošli, dočekao opsadu domaćih i gostiju, koji su svemu usprkos Velikoj Gospi u pohode stigli. I naklonili joj se na prepunom crkvenom prostoru pred Gospinom slikom zaokruženom s četiri tisuće bijelih cvjetova. Sinj se na svoj veliki dan pretvorio u mravinjak, u kojem su se prije mise u 11 sati postavljala dva pitanja. Zašto je zabranjena procesija? I hoće li se usprkos tome održati neka neformalna? I bogme i jest, bila je mala, skromna, na "divlje", ciljano spontana. Startala je oko 9.30, poveo ju je jedan od hodočasnika koji je visoko dignuo Gospinu sliku. Čim je zapjevao, odmah se 50-ak ljudi uključilo u kolonu. I krenuše oni s trga uz molitvu.
---
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Janjičarski put
- Neće nam niko našu procesiju oduzet. Neće i neće. Ajte, ljudi, uđite, iđemo mi onako kako smo i naučili, ovo je Gospin dan. A ono tamo na trgu, oni tamo šta rade, to van je politka - reče nam jedna od raspjevanih sudionica kolone.
A u rano jutro izgledalo je kao da takvog šušura ipak biti neće. Jer gradski su parkovi ovoga puta bili neuobičajeno prazni, tek tu i tamo pokoja grupica mlađarije koja je što zavjetom, što zanosom cijelu noć hodala do svetišta. Prva grupa je iz Solina, od njih nekoliko budna je bila samo Lorena Vukšić. Ostali su snom umornih pravednika pozasapali po mekoj tratini.
- U osam navečer smo krenuli, lagano nas šest, osam sati nam je trebalo do Sinja - kaže Lorena.
Nekih 50 metara dalje blaguju dvije obitelji iz Knina. E oni su jaki, uz logističku potporu, 71 kilometar do Sinja prošli su za 23 sata. Ostavili su iza sebe vrućinu, sparinu, asfalt, ali ne žale, izdržali su - kaže Anto Andrijašević, dok su ostali uz sendviče prilegli, pa nas nude blagotvornom rakijicom. Kažu taman im dođe za opuštanje mišića.
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- Ovo mi je treći put i to je doživljaj i zavjet. Je, lani je bilo manje ljudi, ali ništa u odnosu na one godine prije korone. Tada se u ovaj park nije moglo od naroda ući. Ako nisi tada došao na vrijeme, nisi imao gdje leći. Malo ćemo marendat, pa ćemo na misu i onda pečenje - kaže nam Anto.
E pa kad smo već kod pečenja, evo iz prve ruke, kilo janjetine je bilo 200 kuna, kilo odojka 120. Cesta ispod parka pretvorila se u Janjičarski put, s gomilom štandova punim pečenog mesa. Kažu ovi što su ga probali da je bolje nego ikada, pa ne čudi da se na sve strane već u devet ujutro blagovalo, brisalo masne prste, mljackalo ujednačeno i slasno na sve strane. Zadovoljni su i meštri od pečenja, išlo je pečenje kao ludo, cijelu noć je narod dolazio i naručivao.
- Niko nas nije gonja, zabranjiva, gnjavija, kontrolira, zatvara. Nismo zatvorili u ponoć, ali smo smanjili količinu. I navališe Sinjani ka i uvik. Jedino šta ove godine ne vidim Bosance, oni bi hodočastili pa bi to ligalo po parku. Ove ih godine nema. Korona - kaže Stipe iz Perušića.
Srce slavlja
Probijamo se junački kroz mirise uštipaka, toplih sendviča, hamburgera, ćevapa, palačinki, uštipaka i slatkarije. Nosi se voda u termosicama, naručuju se kave, prodaju se tepisi i drvene posude, narukvice s crkvenim motivima, lukovi i strijele, magneti, tehnički uređaji. Sve je isti kao i lani, zaključujemo, no Andrija iz Sinja uvjerava kako ipak nije. Veli da bez procesije, srca ovog velikog blagdana, nema ni onog pravog šušura. E sada, skupilo se tu nešto, ali nije to kao u vrijeme kada se u Sinju, u tom skupu hodočasnika i vjernika znalo zbrojiti i po 30 - 40 tisuća duša. I svi su oni imali najveću želju, kaže, dotaknuti okvir Gospine slike.
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- Eto, toga više nema. Od kada je ove korone, to je izostalo. I kad ti nema procesije, nema ti onog srca ovog našeg velikog slavlja. Šušura nema i gotovo - kaže nam stariji Sinjanin Andrija.
Mise se redaju jedna za drugom. Plato pred Gospinom slikom pun je kao košnica. Ljudi se mole, rade selfije ispred cvjetnog bazena, skupina žena iz Otoka nam priča, a vjernice su velike, kako za procesijom najviše plaču oni koji su je tek u skorije vrijeme otkrili. Ti novopečeni vjernici. I što se mora, mora se, ako treba bez nje, O.K., mirno će one. Čeka se misa u 11, narod sve više pristiže, puni mrvice hlada po kantunima, zaposjeo je zidiće pred okolnim kućama. Sve je isto kao što je bilo nekada. Ili?
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- Nije isto. Manje je ljudi.
- Ma nije manje, nego su Sinjani feštali cilu noć pa se još nisu ni digli. Leže.
- A nema ni procesije, možda je isto dobro da je nema, zbog korone.
- Ma ajde, molin te, nema veće gluposti nego to šta su je zabranili.
- Morali su je zabranit, zbog zaraze, vidiš da je puno mladih hodočasnika došlo, stariji su izostali, boje se doć.
- Ma dobro, je, ali da je bila procesija, onda bi došli. Iako ih je i ovako puno. A puno je na trgu, došlo je svita sa svih strana. E neka, zato mi domaći uživamo u ovoj našoj maloj Vrličkoj ulici. Neka njih tamo, tamo su im ionako digli cine još od Alke.
- E dobro kažeš, neka stoje oni tamo. Bolje i zbog korone da je manja gužva.
- Ma koja korona, ajde, molin te, nisu tribali zabranit procesiju, to je najveća glupost - i tako ukrug uz kaficu divane Sinjani Dražen i Ante.
Gospe Sinjska, moli za nas. Da ova korona više iđe ća, da je na oči više ne vidimo.
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Miro Bulj: Zašto Hvar može, a Sinj ne?
Evo nam lagano Vrličkom ulicom i gradonačelnika Mira Bulja. U veštitu po zvizdanu. Kaže ide na misu, a prije mise ga čekaju novinari. Mi smo ga premijerno uhvatili nasamo, pa ga pitamo hoće li biti kakvog incidenta, kakve grube riči. Bože sačuvaj, kaže Miro, pa nam kaže kako se svih sinjskih dana fešte ma niti jedna čaša razbila nije.
- I žao mi je i baš mi je žao šta se naša stara tradicija procesije prekinula. Posebice mi je žaj šta neki govore nemojte ići Gospi u Sinj. A na Hvar se moglo. A volio bi da je procesija, jer ne vidim niti jedan razlog da te naše tradicije nema. A vidi ovo, pola Dalmacije je ovdje došlo, pola Hercegovine - veli gradonačelnik Bulj.
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10. svibanj 2024 19:37
